I make cassoulet here, but the proper ingredients are hard to find. In France, confit duck legs and Toulouse sausage are ordinary supermarket buys; here I piece the dish together, and some of it is never quite the same.
Ready-made confit is the closest thing, but it isn't in every store outside Quebec, and when I can't find it, I make my own confit the night before, salted duck legs cooked slowly in lard. The beans are easier: white navy or kidney beans come out creamy and hold up in the long bake. And when nothing fennel-free is in the sausage case, I'd rather make it with pork and confit alone than pull the dish toward Italy.
Cassoulet is white beans baked for hours with pork, sausage and usually duck confit, until the beans turn creamy under a dark crust. The crust is broken and pushed back in several times, so the whole dish takes on its flavour. It comes from the southwest of France, and it's a weekend dish for a crowd.
Read the sausage label
Toulouse sausage is coarse pork, salt and pepper, with no fennel. Outside Quebec, a sausage labelled "mild" is usually mild Italian, which has fennel, so read the label.
Plan the timeline
Soak the beans the night before. On the day, count about 4½ hours from the first pot to the table, most of it unattended in the oven.
Keeping the beans creamy, not dry
The beans should be soft and whole in a thick sauce, never dry. If the top looks dry between crusts, pour a ladle of hot bean liquid or broth down the side of the dish so you don't wash the crust away. Salt the beans only at the end of their first simmer, because the belly and the confit add their own.




